Abstract
Typical berm erosion and accretion are closely related to the beachface slope. Empirical equation for prediction of the beachface slope is proposed. The beachface slope is expressed as a function of the wave period and the bed sediment grain size. Coefficients in the equation are obtained from three sets of carefully chosen laboratory data through a multiple linear regression with two independent variables using SPSS version 22. The computed correlation coefficient is as high as 0.983, which is believed to justify the validity of the present formulation. A shore profile is split into beachface and underwater bed profile in the surf zone, and described with two straight lines. Possibility of using the beachface slope strategically for warning of future berm erosion at the site is proposed.
1. Introduction
Onoffshore or crossshore sediment transport problem is a very complex problem which involves wave breaking, tidal variation, and offshore bar formation and movement. Beachface is a special place where water is dynamically mixed with air bubbles, waves run up and down, and bed sediment transports affected by infiltration, exfiltration and groundwater level. Interestingly the beachface exhibits fairly straight shape or constant slope compared to underwater surf zone with wavy geometry.
The shore zone has been heavily treated as a defense line. Especially it protects land from disasters like storm, storm surge or tsunami. Worldwide efforts are undergoing to preserve shore capacity to prevent natural disasters at many coastal sites. Special structures have been designed and constructed for the purpose, and beach nourishment has also been frequently used to preserve beach width. For example, Haeundae beach, Busan, Korea has recently suffered serious erosion, been nourished with sand to some extent, and still urgent optimum countermeasures are needed to control the erosion at the site.
The sediment transport around shoreline is induced by many physical parameters, e.g. winds, waves, and longshore currents. Underwater sediment transport mechanism has often been studied in separate categories like wave, current, wave and currentdriven sediment transport. Although understanding of sediment transport in wave current environment has significantly progressed up to the present, many areas still need further research works, e.g. mudsand mixture problem, bedform prediction, and crossshore sediment transport and profile change. The effect of grain size and sorting on coastal sediment transport has not yet been intensively studied, either. Armouring is another important factor affecting scour around coastal or ocean structures.
The sediment transport around shoreline has often been described by combination of two different modes; the longshore sediment transport (O’Connor et al., [1]) and the crossshore sediment transport. We will look into the crossshore sediment transport in this paper.
The crossshore sediment transport has been studied by many researchers since decades ago because of its relationship with shore protection. The crossshore sediment transport is affected by several factors, i.e. wave height, wave period, wave power, skewness or asymmetry of water level, particle velocity, or acceleration during wave period, dispersion due to wave breaking, undertow current, bed material properties, balance between bed load and suspended load, and local bed slope. Individual researchers argue different relative importance between the above factors. Onshore or offshore boundary conditions also affect the shore profile changes. Watanabe et al. [2], Kajima et al. [3], Bailard [4], respectively, proposed theories or numerical models for crossshore sediment transport. Bruun [5] proposed equilibrium profile concept which is an output of crossshore sediment transport description. The equilibrium profile represents a state that no net crossshore sediment flux occurs along the profile for a given steady wave condition. Donnelly et al. [6] studied the crossshore sediment transport over barrier islands. The sediment transport and profiles at barrier islands are distinguished from other types of onshore profiles because of overwash over the barriers. Aagaard et al. [7] looked at detailed temporal and spatial behavior of suspended sediment in the surf zone in their numerical modeling work of sediment transport, instead of using empirical formulae for bed load or total load. Some researchers presented comparison results of existing crossshore models, e.g. Abreu et al. [8] compared a few crossshore sediment transport models, and recommended further improvement of models. Twodimensional wave flume is an adequate device to study the crossshore sediment transport, because it is not interfered by longshore current or longshore sediment transport, the condition of which hardly exists at real fields. More elaborate laboratory experiments have also been carried out, e.g. Dubarbier et al. [9] used light weight sediment for their experimental and numerical modelling work on crossshore sediment transport.
Some researchers tried to quantify the effect of the wave skewness or particle velocity asymmetry on the crossshore sediment transport (Doering and Bowen [10], Rakha and Deigaard [11], Doering et al. [12], Sancho et al. [13], Rocha et al. [14], Grasso [15]). Baldock et al. [16] argued that the effect of long waves on the shore bed profile is nonnegligible.
Average bed slope within a range of horizontal distance has been studied for various purposes. Explicit forms of equations for the average bed slope within the surf zone or the bed slope at a specific location along offshore distance were proposed by a few researchers, and equations for the beachface slope were also proposed by other researchers.
Hanson and Kraus [17] made use of Dean’s [18] equation with a power function for the equilibrium bed profile shape, and deduced an equation for the average bed slope within the surf zone from integration of the equilibrium bed profile equation. They used it in their program GENESIS. They assigned the offshore limit as the location, the offshore side of which crossshore sediment transport does not occur. Equations of the model read:
where $h$ is the local water depth, $A$ is a scale parameter known as a function of the median grain size, $x$ is the offshore distance from an origin, $\theta $ is the angle between the local bed surface and the horizon, $\mathrm{t}\mathrm{a}\mathrm{n}\theta $ is the local bed slope, ${D}_{max}$ is the maximum water depth of longshore sediment transport, ${H}_{o}$ is the deep water wave height, and ${L}_{o}$ is the deep water wave length. For example, they suggested $A$ as ${\text{0.41}d}_{50}^{0.94}$ for ${d}_{50}<\mathrm{}$0.4 mm, and $\text{0.25}{d}_{50}^{0.32}$ for 0.4 $\le {d}_{50}<\mathrm{}$10 mm, respectively. However, the above approach is limited to very small deep water wave height condition in Eq. (3) describing the maximum water depth of longshore sediment transport, which can produce negative water depth for large deep water wave height. Another problem of the above approach is that Dean’s equilibrium profile equation is not applicable at the origin of $x$ axis ($x=0$) because of singularity, which is not valid for description of the slope near beachface.
Larson and Kraus [19] adopted an empirical equation for the bed slope seaward the wave break point while developing their crossshore sediment transport model, SBEACH, that is:
where, $\gamma $ is the breaker ratio (${H}_{b}/{h}_{b}$), and $\epsilon $ is the similarity parameter. However, the equation for the local bed slope seaward of the break point is different from much steeper beachface slope.
Sunamura and Horikawa [20] proposed an index to distinguish net sediment transport direction whether it is in the onshore or offshore direction, that is:
where $C$ is the index coefficient, $\text{tan}\theta $ is the initial uniform bed slope in the surf zone, and ${d}_{50}$ is the median grain size. $C$ could be regarded as a scale parameter of the above equation. Sunamura and Horikawa suggested that if $C$ is larger than 8, the sediment transport direction is offshore; if $C$ is smaller than 4, the sediment transport direction is onshore; and if $C$ is between 4 and 8, the sediment transport direction is neutral. Taking a central value of 6 for $C$ as the neutral sediment transport direction, the above equation can be rearranged into the following form:
The above equation could be regarded as the equilibrium slope for given wave and bed material conditions. However, the bed slope in the above equation is thought to be the mean slope from the beach to the point of the offshore limit water depth of sediment transport. Thus, it is not possible to use the above equation for prediction of the beachface slope.
Walgreen et al. [23] studied the effect of grain size sorting on the formation of sand ridges with analysis of field data. Hoque and Asano [21] developed a numerical model coupling wave motion and groundwater flow over a uniform slope. They emphasized the importance of the effect of infiltration and exfiltration on sediment transport. Kelly and Dodd [22] developed a numerical model to investigate swash on erodible beaches, and emphasized the importance of coupling of water and bed motions, worked on the bed evolution and the maximum wave runup.
The bed slope at the beachface may be steepest along crossshore bed profile. The bed slope generally gets milder as the water gets deeper with exception around offshore bars. Let’s define the beachface slope as a representative slope of the beachface, and more specifically the slope of the beachface on the mean sea level. The beachface slope is relatively easy to measure compared to submerged zone slope. The beachface is also called as swash zone, or foreshore depending on viewer’s viewpoint. It could be defined as the place where waves run up and backrush.
Previous research results on the beachface slope include Sunamura [24], Anthony [25], Masselink and Li [26], and Reis and Gama [27].
Sunamura [24] proposed empirical formulae for prediction of the beachface slope. He derived a nondimensional parameter, ${H}_{b}/{g}^{0.5}{d}_{50}^{0.5}T$ first, where ${H}_{b}$ is the breaking wave height, $g$ is the acceleration due to gravity, ${d}_{50}$ is the median grain size of the bed material, and $T$ is the wave period, and fitted curves onto some laboratory data and field data, respectively. Sunamura’s equations are:
Although Sunamura’ predictions show similar trend with the data he used, comparison figures of data and prediction curves display wide scattering. Perhaps the above nondimensional parameter he chose may not be enough to reflect the inherent detailed physics. The beachface slope increases with the wave period in his formulas, the trend of which disagrees with some existing data (Wise et al. [28]).
Anthony [25] suggested that beach parameters like the Iribarren number which includes the bed slope are better indicators of beach morphodynamic type, such as reflective or dissipative, than sediment size. However, Anthony’s results are not in a form to predict the beachface slope.
Masselink and Li [26] proposed a numerical model incorporating microprocesses to describe the relationship between the beachface slope and infiltration, exfiltration and groundwater level. They concluded that sand beaches are not much affected by the infiltration or exfiltration in contrast to gravel beaches.
Reis and Gama [27] induced a relationship between the sand size, offshore wave height, and the beachface slope by introducing the socalled “constructal law” (Bejan, [29]). They obtained the beachface slopes by adjusting a straight line around mean sea level. Although they did not show an explicit form of empirical prediction equation, their argument can be expressed in the following form:
where $E$ is the scaling coefficient decided by field conditions including the grain sphericity, porosity, and the fluid viscosity. The above relationship was examined to a group of field data. However, the data they used are confined in relatively small offshore wave heights. They plotted field data onto their theoretical group of curves, and didn’t mention the agreement level between the two.
As regards methodology to predict the beachface slope, Sunamura’s and Reis and Gama’s equations are available, but their equations incorporate weak points. Further refinement of the previous formulae is tried in this paper.
2. Determination of empirical functional form for beachface slope
Field sea bed profile shapes cannot be standardized due to diverse sitespecific parameters, e.g. external forces and bed material properties. Although there is no standard berm pattern above beachface, we can think of some typical berm types, i.e. mount berms, flat berms, or island berms. Each type means (a) bed level becomes higher further inland, (b) bed level stays more or less flat, (c) bed level becomes lower after a island summit, and meets another mean sea level, respectively, see Fig. 1. The onshore berm pattern affects onshore boundary condition for bed profile changes. When condition (c) is applied, i.e. almost parallel two shorelines run along a barrier island, overwash takes an important role for shoreline movement. The pattern of shoreline movement of barrier islands is distinguished from that of landside beaches.
Equilibrium profile is a useful concept. If a profile is in equilibrium, no net sediment transport occurs at all points of a beach profile, and the profile does not change in time. However, in reality shore profiles always change, and equilibrium status is not reached at all. Nevertheless the equilibrium profile concept may be useful for engineering purpose. If we know that any profile is close to the equilibrium one, sediment transport and the bathymetric status at the site could be considered as almost steady.
Dean’s equilibrium bed profile equation is relatively simple, and has been referred by many people. Dean’s equilibrium equation is of a power form; the onshoreside boundary slope is large, and the bed slope becomes milder with the offshore distance from the shoreline, the trend of which is generally correct at fields, if offshore bars are ignored. However, the slope towards the onshore boundary becomes unlimited as the offshore distance approaches zero, and the offshore limit the equation can be applied has not well been defined.
Fig. 1Berm types over beaches
The beachface slope is generally steeper than other part of the bed profile, or the average bed slope in the surf zone. The beachface profile is more or less straight within the beachface width. For example, the beachface slopes at Profile Line 188, Duck, NC, USA of Birkmeier [30] during several months look straight, and the crest points of the profiles have not moved much, which means the berm has not suffered serious erosion or accretion during the period, while the surf zone suffered serious morphological changes, see Fig. 2. Even though the above site is just an example, it demonstrates typical behavior of the bed profile change. In contrast to the beachface the main bed morphology in the surf zone experienced wild changes, especially during storm season, and one or multiple sand bars developed within the surf zone at the above example shore, see Fig. 3. The sand bars are not necessarily straight in plane, or parallel with the shoreline. They behave like sand dunes, migrates onshoreward or offshoreward depending on the variation of wave climate. A detailed field bathymetric survey on an east coast of Korea has shown that each bar is circular in plane rather than straight, and moves around with a high speed (Lee, [31]).
Thus, two straight lines could be used to describe the whole shore bed profile between the beachface to the offshore limit for sediment transport. The straight line representing the bed level in the surf zone is not an accurate profile, but it is a kind of filtered or spatial movingaveraged bed profile getting rid of wavy components like offshore bars. We first describe the beachface slope.
Fig. 2Example of bed profile changes at Profile Line 188 (after Birkmeier [30])
The beach slope is related to many physical parameters, e.g. tidal range, wave parameters including wave height, wave period, wave direction, wave duration, and bed material parameters including median grain size, local grain size distribution, grain size variation along profile, and berm pattern.
Fig. 3Example morphology showing moving offshore bars in surf zone at Profile Line 188 (after Birkmeier [30])
It may not be easy to develop a general prediction equation of the beachface slope applicable to any coastal sites. We consider some simplified situations only:
 Zero tidal range is assumed.
 Flat onshore berms are considered.
 The beach slope is assumed to be in equilibrium.
 Wave direction is assumed to be normal to the shoreline.
 Medium grain size is uniform along the bed profile.
We first try to identify the most important variables which affect the beachface slope.
First, waves are important external force to affect the beach morphology. Field waves are not only multifrequency, but also multidirectional random waves. However, laboratory data from twodimensional wave flumes can be considered as better controlled data. Furthermore, data for regular waves can represent the effect of the wave period or wave height more clearly and explicitly. Therefore, as the first step it would be meaningful to draw out an empirical formula for the beach slope as a function of regular wave parameters by using laboratory regular wave data rather than using field multidirectional random wave data or laboratory longcrested random wave data.
The effect of the offshore wave height on the equilibrium profile must be significant. For example, the offshore wave height determines the breaking water depth, and the offshore critical water depth for sediment transport. The surf zone width, the undertow strength, and the turbulenceinduced dissipation strongly depends on the deep water wave height. However, it has been known that the local wave height is closely dependent on the local water depth, i.e. the local wave height does not have strong link with the offshore wave height for spilling breakers:
The wave breaker ratio is known to be weakly dependent to the wave steepness and the local bed slope. Ignoring waveinduced setup, treating $\mathrm{\gamma}$ as constant for spilling breakers, the wave height near the shoreline becomes identical regardless of the deep water wave height, see Fig. 4. The waveinduced setup may not be ignorable for high waves, but the order of magnitude is relatively small compared to the wave height itself, and the shoreline retreat due to the wave setup is expected not to be large. The beachface slope may not be much influenced by the wave setup, or the resultant shoreline movement because of its almost uniform attribute within the beachface range. Therefore, we decide not to include the wave height as an independent variable to the dependent variable, beachface slope. Watanabe et al. [2] showed their laboratory experimental results for the same wave period and different wave heights, and the results demonstrate the wave height affects the width of bed profile change rather than the beachface slope, see Fig. 5.
Fig. 4. Wave height distribution for spilling breaker type
Fig. 5Example of small dependency of beachface slope on wave height (after Watanabe [2])
As an important parameter of sea waves, the wave period strongly affects bed morphology through fluid motion characteristics, e.g. the wave skewness, or water particle velocity asymmetry, see Fig. 6. Both the bed slope and the wave period are strongly related to the wave skewness. The equilibrium beachface slope is inferred to be dependent on the wave period here.
Next, the bed material properties are important parameters affecting the beachface slope. There are many parameters to describe noncohesive sediment properties, e.g. the median grain diameter, variance, and skewness. The median diameter may be the most important parameter between them.
Thus, we propose an empirical formula for the equilibrium beachface slope as a function of the wave period, and the bed medium grain size as:
where ${I}_{b}$ is the beachface slope ($=\mathrm{t}\mathrm{a}\mathrm{n}\theta $), and $\theta $ is the angle between the beachface slope and the horizon. The above equation can be regarded as a function of the deep water wave length and the median grain size, too. Introducing power relationships between the beachface slope and the two independent variables, the wave period, and the median grain diameter:
Fig. 6Schematic diagram of relation between bed slope, wave period, and net sediment transport direction
In order to find three coefficients in the above equation either rational reasoning or a statistical analysis of data is needed. Available existing data sets are as follows:
a) Watanabe et al. [2]
Watanabe et al. carried out laboratory experiments on crossshore sediment transport at a mediumsized wave flume. They started experiments on uniformsloped sand bed, and presented final equilibrium profiles for many cases combining several wave conditions, bed sand grain sizes, and initial bed slopes. Although they did not explicitly shown the beachface slope data, the slopes can be read from their profile figures. Uniform initial bed slopes were used for their experiment.
Table 1Watanabe et al.’s experimental cases (initial bed slope = 0.1) [2]
Case  Deep water wave height (m)  Wave period (s)  Grain size (mm)  Beachface slope 
A122  0.058  1.5  0.2  0.231 
A132  0.054  2.0  0.2  0.211 
B123  0.077  1.5  0.7  0.263 
B134  0.082  2.0  0.7  0.240 
b) Kajima et al. [3]
Kajima et al. carried out laboratory experiments at a large wave flume, and presented timevarying profiles for many cases: changing wave conditions, bed grain size, and initial bed slope. Uniform initial bed slopes were used for their experiment.
Table 2Kajima et al.’s experimental cases [3]
Case  Wave height (m)  Wave period (s)  Grain size (mm)  Initial bed slope  Beachface slope 
21  1.76  6.0  0.47  0.03  0.140 
22  0.73  9.0  0.47  0.03  0.130 
31  1.07  9.1  0.27  0.05  0.110 
32  1.05  6.0  0.27  0.05  0.130 
c) Wise et al. [28]
Wise et al. carried out experiments at a large wave flume Supertank for cases of various conditions, and used the data for validation of their crossshore sediment transport numerical model. They started each experiment from nonuniformsloped bed profiles, and obtained modified bed profiles after some time. They confined the wave periods within a narrow range for their experiments, and used one bed material only. Their experimental cases include many random wave cases, and five regular wave cases. Four of their regular wave experimental results are select for our statistical analysis here to distinguish the effect of the wave period, while one case for overwashing with regular waves is not included in our statistical analysis.
Table 3Wise et al.’s large water tank experiments for regular waves [28]
Case  Wave height (m)  Wave period (s)  Grain size (mm)  Beachface slope  Remarks 
P1E2  0.8  4.5  0.22  0.140  Eroded beach 
PGA  0.8  3.0  0.22  0.170  Eroded beach 
PJC  0.7  3.0  0.22  0.160  With narrowcrested mound 
PKC  0.7  3.0  0.22  0.150  With broadcrested mound 
The above three sets of data were used to find the three coefficients in Eq. (15). The prediction equation was first transformed into a linear equation by taking logarithm on both sides. Then the linear regression module with multiple independent variables in SPSSversion 22 was used for the regression analysis (Levesque, [32]). Analysis results show high correlation coefficient ($R$) of 0.983. The three coefficients in the prediction equation, $C$, $m$, $n$, are 0.332, –0.416, 0.122, respectively, see Table 4.
Table 4Results of regression analysis of three sets of data
Variables  Nonstandardized coefficients  Standardized coefficient  Significance level  
$B$  Standard error  $\beta $  
$\text{ln}C$  –1.103  0.0412  0.000  
$m$  –0.416  0.020  –0.968  0.000 
$n$  0.122  0.030  0.185  0.010 
Eq. (15) is rewritten with coefficients found:
where $T$ is the wave period (s), and ${d}_{50}$ is the median grain size (mm). The above new empirical equation expresses the trends that the longer the wave period, the milder the beachface slope; the coarser the median grain size, the steeper the slope.
Now we apply the above new empirical equation, Sunamura’s equation, and Reis and Gama’s equation to the previous three data sets for intercomparison with laboratory data, see Table 5. While using Eq. (11) of Weis and Gama, the coefficient $E$ was differently chosen to produce best agreement with laboratory measurements for each set of data.
Table 5 shows that the mean absolute error of the present equation, Eq. (16), is 4 times smaller than Sunamura’s equation, and 9 times smaller than Reis and Gama’s equation. It should be noted that the data used for intercomparison was used for extracting Eq. (16). Nevertheless, it is believed that the beachslope is strongly affected by both the wave period, and the bed grain size, and less influenced by the wave steepness (wave height over wave length), or the wave height, which are included in Sunamura’s equation, and Reis and Gama’s equation, respectively.
It is noted that the data used for the above regression are within limited ranges, i.e. from 1.5 to 9 seconds of the wave period, and from 0.2 to 0.7 mm of the median grain size. It would be acceptable to predict a beachface slope for conditions within the ranges by using the above new equation, but using the above equation for extrapolation cases should be careful, until it is valicated to conditions of wider ranges, or additional regression work is done with additional data of wider ranges.
Table 5Comparison of empirical equations, Sunamura [24], Reis and Gama [27], and Eq. (16) and three sets of laboratory beachface slope measurements
Case number  Lab. data  Sunamura  Reis and Gama  New (Eq. (16))  
Watanabe et al. [2]  A122  0.231  0.167  0.157  0.230 
A132  0.211  0.185  0.200  0.204  
B123  0.263  0.184  0.325  0.269  
B134  0.240  0.203  0.263  0.238  
Kajima et al. [3]  21  0.140  0.151  0.020  0.144 
22  0.130  0.159  0.384  0.121  
31  0.110  0.152  0.051  0.113  
32  0.130  0.151  0.055  0.134  
Wise et al. [28]  P1E2  0.140  0.151  0.121  0.148 
PGA  0.170  0.150  0.121  0.175  
PJC  0.160  0.151  0.189  0.175  
PKC  0.150  0.151  0.189  0.175  
Mean absolute error (MAE)  0.029  0.068  0.007 
3. Practical use of beachface slope
Beach profile could give a signal of possible future retreat of coastal defense line. A bed profile could be expressed by two straight lines, beachface and the surf zone bed profile. The beachface slope can be more easily observed than the underwater surf zone. As we express a shore bed profile by two straight lines as described before, we examine the meaning of the beachface slope within the whole bed profile by considering sediment mass conservation at the section, see Fig. 7. We confine our interest to flat berm pattern only.
Fig. 7Schematic shore profile composed of two lines; sediment mass is conserved
Two boundary conditions are needed at onshore boundary point and offshore boundary point, which are the berm crest, and the offshore limit of sediment transport, respectively.
There can be two different conditions at offshore boundary of a shore profile. First, sediment transport and net sediment transport do not happen there. This assumption may not strictly be true because suspended sediment transport is still possible around this offshoreend boundary. Strictly speaking, the position of the offshore limit of the sediment transport is not a definite one, but should be found from probability point of view. When a wrong offshore limit of sediment transport is used, it will produce wrong bed profile change. Anyway, when this boundary condition is applied at the offshore boundary, no bathymetric change occurs outside of this boundary, and no source or sink of sediment is allowed at this boundary. We will also look at cases when the limiting water depth is not applied at the offshore boundary. We may consider a certain shallow zone profile, but the offshore boundary is considered shallower than the unseen limiting water depth for sediment transport or depth of closure. Net sediment transport is allowed across this offshore boundary.
If the bed profile changes with the zerosediment flux condition at the offshore boundary, and without the fixed bed level condition at the berm onshore boundary, the berm could further be eroded when shortperiod waves continue to penetrate into this coast, see Fig. 8. However, the average bed slope in the surf zone may get steeper and steeper, and eventually berm erosion should stop due to limited amount of sediment budget at the berm.
If some net outgoing sediment flux is allowed at the offshore boundary, the berm could keep on suffering erosion, see Fig. 9.
Fig. 8Berm retreat pattern for no sediment exchange condition at offshore boundary
Fig. 9Berm retreat pattern for some net transport at offshore boundary
The opposite development is expected for shoreline advance. If the zerosediment flux condition at the offshore boundary is applied, and the berm area can expand at the onshore boundary, the berm could further be accreted, when longperiod waves continue to attack this coast, see Fig. 10. However, the average bed slope in the surf zone gets milder, and eventually berm accretion should stop due to physical limit of the bed slope in the surf zone. If net incoming sediment flux is allowed at the offshore boundary, the berm could then keep on expand forward, see Fig. 11.
In case the wave climate at a coast is predictable, and the beachface slopes for possible short wave period and long wave period are known in advance, it would be a good idea to monitor the beachface slope at the site. If the present beachface slope is close to the steep slope for short wave period, it could be a warning for serious berm erosion, see Fig. 12. On the other hand, if the present beachface is close to the mild slope for long wave period, it could be a warning for expansion of the berm crest, if berm crest growth causes any serious problem.
Accuracy of measurement of the beachface slope is another problem. The equation proposed in the present study is based on the laboratory experiments only, and has not yet been checked against field data. Many other factors may get involved in the problem, and therefore, it is suggested that the beachface slope at a site may be monitored with wave and tide conditions. The sitespecific maximum and minimum beachface slope at a coast could be used for warning of serious berm erosion or accretion at the site in the future.
Fig. 10Berm accretion pattern for no sediment transport condition across offshore limit
Fig. 11Berm accretion pattern for sediment transport condition across offshore limit
Fig. 12Allowances for erosion and accretion
4. Conclusions
An empirical equation to predict the beachface slope is proposed here. The independent variables are the wave period, and the bed sediment grain size. Three existing data sets were chosen to extract the coefficients of the equation: one set from a mediumsized flume, and the other two sets from large wave flumes. The coefficients in the equation were obtained from multiple linear regression with two independent variables. The regression results show high correlation coefficient, and are believed to be significant. The absolute power to the wave period in the prediction equation of the beachface slope is 0.416, while the power to the sediment grain size is 0.122. The new empirical equation shows better agreement to laboratory beachface slope measurements compared to Sunamura’s and Reis and Gama’s equations.
If the beachface slope is predictable, it could be used as a sign of future berm erosion or accretion. The shore profile is expressed by two line segments; beachface, and the rest part of the profile which covers most surf zone. Filtering out detailed bar formation and movement, assuming that an offshore limit exists for sediment transport, expressing the shore profile by two straight lines, the beachface slope, and the surf zone slope, then the two lines will show interactive changes due to sediment mass conservation. When a storm attacks the area of interest, and the beachface is adjusting itself to the ongoing storm, the difference between the present beachface slope and the predicted beachface slope for shortperiod waves means the allowance for further beachface modification with no significant berm erosion. However, if the present beachface slope is already in the steeper side for shortperiod waves that means no more allowance is left for safe beach modification, but the berm itself may suffer erosion, which is a serious threat of berm safety for additional future storm. And the opposite situation is also possible. Therefore, it would be important to monitor the beachface slope at any coastal site to protect future potential berm erosion or accretion.
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This work has been supported by KIMST as research projects, “Marine and Environmental Prediction System (MEPS)” in 2013, and “Development of Coastal Erosion Control Technology (MIDAS)” in 2014.